1. The very first impression that struck me, and struck me hard, was noticing how dark (in a pleasant way) and quiet Panama city is in the evenings. At 6pm as we were entering the city from the airport, it looked like other cities do at 3am in the morning. The skyscrapers had few lights on, and the street light was so scant that you could hardly see the faces of people crossing the streets. It felt serene; like entering a candle-lit city that hasn't yet arrived into the age of bright shop-signs and screaming billboards.
2. The other thing I couldn't escape noticing immediately was that vehicles here do not display their registration number at their front, the number plate is only at the back. This makes identifying your Uber amongst incoming traffic extremely different as you can only confirm the vehicle once it has passed by you. Sometimes the drivers switch their parking lights on when looking out for their passengers, but that isn't very helpful at an airport where most taxis are doing the same.
3. The waiter taking our dinner order on the first night calmly told us, "obviously no alcohol today" which left us perplexed. The following day an American staying at our hotel cleared our confusion. Apparently the locals have a drinking problem and they go crazy drinking all day on holidays, sometimes to such an extent that they can't turn up to work the following day. That's why the sale of alcohol is prohibited on holidays.
This was very sad to know. Not because the festivities are forcibly dampened, but because this fact, if true, illustrates how vulnerable many locals are. The only other community that I know has such a deep-rooted alcohol problem are the aboriginals of Australia, and their stories always leave me with sadness.
4. The American at our hotel was the first of the many we met throughout our holiday. Like other Central American countries - particularly Mexico, Guatemala & Costa Rica - Panama is a popular choice for retired Americans looking for sun, beach and cheap beer. It's a similar case in Europe where people go to Spain, Portugal or Malta (or Thailand for the more adventurous) to live. By the way, don't be misled into thinking I'm looking down on them. On the contrary, I feel they are wise(r). Having met and talked to dozens of them over the years, I can't wait to join their club, I just need to find the perfect place first :)
A particular reason Panama ranks high among Americans is because Panama uses American Dollars as its currency, thereby taking away currency risk for those who have their savings in USD.
5. I was aware of the American influence in Panama even before I came here (due to the Canal), but I did not know the full details of their relationship. The story behind the Canal is a tragic tale of dreams, sweat, greed and deceit. It is slightly long to belong here so I have put it in a separate post (link here).
6. The other interesting story I learnt here was about Scotland's failed bid to become a colonial power. In all my history education and reading I never came across any reference to Scotland's attempt to form a colony of their own, I thought they were too busy not to become a colony themselves. So it was surprising, might even say shocking, to learn about these ambitions; like discovering a very uncharacteristic past about a friend you thought you knew all too well.
Anyway, in the late 1600s the Scots decided to start a settlement in present day Panama, in a province called 'Guna Yala' which we visited. Their endeavour failed terribly despite the Gunas being relatively friendly to them (as opposed to the Spanish who they hated). Hundreds of settlers lost their lives and nearly a fifth of entire Scottish wealth was wiped off. In a cruel twist of fate, the failure of this project was one of the important factors why the Scottish nobles, now facing bankruptcy, accepted the union with England less than a decade after the debacle (in 1707).
The Scottish settlement, once hailed the "New Edinburgh" was until 2011 called "Puerto Escocés" (Scottish Harbour) by the locals. For more reading, go to this page.
7. Food is obviously an important motivation for travel; ah! the great joy of discovering new flavours and cuisines. Panama has excellent seafood, as you'd expected from a country whose name literally means "abundance of fish". Notwithstanding the adulation it often gets, and deservingly so, seafood has one innate disadvantage in my humble opinion. Because in most cuisines it is usually grilled or fried, the flavor is quite universal, like the French Fries. It doesn't embody any unique or distinct flavour to become a national speciality, in this called being "Panamanian". I could probably have the same grilled fish and rice in every other continent. So if you asked me what Panamanian dishes I tried, I wouldn't be able to tell. My travel guidebook mentioned a few local dishes and soups but I couldn't find them anywhere. And options beyond seafood were frighteningly familiar: Burgers, Pizzas & Fried Chicken.
8. The Aftertaste: Of course I enjoyed Panama. We went with the least expectations but managed to spend eight days without ever feeling bored. But for some strange reason I am slightly unsatisfied, I feel something was lacking. I couldn't pinpoint what it was before, but pondering over it now, as I write this on my flight back home, I think I've understood it - it was the inability to sense the pulse of the country.
Developing countries, especially democratic ones, are forever going through a tumultous change, several conflicting opinions locked in a fierce debate. Travelling without encountering or understanding them becomes merely a pleasure ride, a superficial sensual journey. My favourite holidays have all been ones when I've come back identifying with the common man, understanding his grievances better. That didn't happen to me in Panama. Unfortunately, we didn't get the opportunity to step off the tourist trail and meet real people or have honest conversations.
The End.
PS: I wrote much of this blog on my flight home. I was actually on the 7th point when I landed in Madrid for my stop-over. As soon as I got off the plane I realised how stupid I was to be even half-critical of Panama. It's so freaking cold here, the singular fact that Panama has great sun makes me want to turn back.
Some photos from the trip
